About Lawn Seeds
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There are currently no "No Mow" grasses that are suitable for lawns.
Some grass varieties do require less maintenance than others. What this means is the grass will require less water and fertilizer than other species. Less water and fertilizer does lead to slower growth and less frequent mowing however it is important to be aware that your lawn will not look as lush and thick as a well maintained turf area. Low maintenance species aren’t as competitive as other grasses, which can also leave your lawn more susceptible to weeds and take longer to recover from damage due to high traffic, drought, insect damage, etc.
There aren’t too many low maintenance grass seed mixes available on retail shelves. However, you can look for products that contain higher quantities of fine fescues (creeping red, chewing and hard fescue). If you can’t find a specific "low maintenance" mix, pick up a shade mixture. These mixes tend to have 60% or more fine fescues and despite the "shade" moniker, they will also thrive in full sun. Fine fescues require less water and fertilizer than perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass. Your lawn won’t look as lush, but you can also forget about it for few weeks without serious consequences.
Since low maintenance species aren’t as competitive as other grasses you will need to seed a little heavier than normal (3.5 kg per 100 m2 or 6-7 lbs per 100 ft2). You should also overseed each fall to keep your lawn thick and reduce the opportunity for weeds to become established.
Another component in low maintenance lawns is white clover. As a legume, white clover has the ability to fix its own nitrogen from the atmosphere and therefore requires no nitrogen fertilizer. Furthermore, it thrives in a "lawn-type" setting and is very drought tolerant. The one downside is that once introduced, it could become a dominant component in your lawn and a selective weed herbicide will also kill the clover.
Some grass varieties do require less maintenance than others. What this means is the grass will require less water and fertilizer than other species. Less water and fertilizer does lead to slower growth and less frequent mowing however it is important to be aware that your lawn will not look as lush and thick as a well maintained turf area. Low maintenance species aren’t as competitive as other grasses, which can also leave your lawn more susceptible to weeds and take longer to recover from damage due to high traffic, drought, insect damage, etc.
There aren’t too many low maintenance grass seed mixes available on retail shelves. However, you can look for products that contain higher quantities of fine fescues (creeping red, chewing and hard fescue). If you can’t find a specific "low maintenance" mix, pick up a shade mixture. These mixes tend to have 60% or more fine fescues and despite the "shade" moniker, they will also thrive in full sun. Fine fescues require less water and fertilizer than perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass. Your lawn won’t look as lush, but you can also forget about it for few weeks without serious consequences.
Since low maintenance species aren’t as competitive as other grasses you will need to seed a little heavier than normal (3.5 kg per 100 m2 or 6-7 lbs per 100 ft2). You should also overseed each fall to keep your lawn thick and reduce the opportunity for weeds to become established.
Another component in low maintenance lawns is white clover. As a legume, white clover has the ability to fix its own nitrogen from the atmosphere and therefore requires no nitrogen fertilizer. Furthermore, it thrives in a "lawn-type" setting and is very drought tolerant. The one downside is that once introduced, it could become a dominant component in your lawn and a selective weed herbicide will also kill the clover.
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Yes, apply seed in Spring when soil temperature reaches 15°C (60°F) - Ideally mid May to mid June. If you have spread grass seed in the early spring, it will not germinate until the soil temperature reaches about 15° C (about 60° F).
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Depending on mixture, you should expect initial growth for most varieties to begin in 7 days provided adequate moisture is available, soil is warm enough and conditions allow for germination. Kentucky Bluegrass will take up to 30 days to germinate. The more ryegrass in the mix the faster the grass will establish. The more bluegrass in the mix the slower the grass will establish. First mowing should take place in 3-6 weeks when the grass blades reach 3" in height.
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Before you start, you may question whether to use seed or sod. Both options have advantages, which need to be weighed.
Seeding - Pros
Cost – Seeding a lawn is a fraction of the cost compared to sod.
Customization – Seeding allows you to use different blends for different areas on your property (sun, shade, etc.).
Personal satisfaction is another factor. Seeing a lawn germinate from seed and fill into a lush stand of turf gives the same sense of accomplishment one feels from raising vegetables in a garden or preparing a spectacular meal from scratch.
Seeding - Cons
It takes 4-6 weeks for a new lawn to fully establish. During this time you want little to no traffic on it. You’ll also need to keep the ground moist through most of this period. It is also susceptible to invasion by weeds during this establishment time.
Sod - Pros
Sod is an instant lawn. One day bare ground, the next day a fully-grown lawn.
Sod - Cons
Cost is the biggest factor here. For many people, sod isn’t in their budget. Most lawns are a blend of different grass varieties; this improves the likelihood of the lawn surviving difficult conditions. Sod usually contains only one or two species varieties of grass.
Seeding - Pros
Cost – Seeding a lawn is a fraction of the cost compared to sod.
Customization – Seeding allows you to use different blends for different areas on your property (sun, shade, etc.).
Personal satisfaction is another factor. Seeing a lawn germinate from seed and fill into a lush stand of turf gives the same sense of accomplishment one feels from raising vegetables in a garden or preparing a spectacular meal from scratch.
Seeding - Cons
It takes 4-6 weeks for a new lawn to fully establish. During this time you want little to no traffic on it. You’ll also need to keep the ground moist through most of this period. It is also susceptible to invasion by weeds during this establishment time.
Sod - Pros
Sod is an instant lawn. One day bare ground, the next day a fully-grown lawn.
Sod - Cons
Cost is the biggest factor here. For many people, sod isn’t in their budget. Most lawns are a blend of different grass varieties; this improves the likelihood of the lawn surviving difficult conditions. Sod usually contains only one or two species varieties of grass.
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Best time to seed is late summer – early fall.
The exact timing will vary from location to location and from year to year. The hot days of summer should be past before seeding.
Fall seeding allows two establishment periods (fall and spring) before the grass must go through a hot, dry summer. Late summer soil temperatures are warm to promote fast germination and the nights are cool. Increased morning dew helps keep seeds moist. There is also reduced pressure from competitive weeds.
The exact timing will vary from location to location and from year to year. The hot days of summer should be past before seeding.
Fall seeding allows two establishment periods (fall and spring) before the grass must go through a hot, dry summer. Late summer soil temperatures are warm to promote fast germination and the nights are cool. Increased morning dew helps keep seeds moist. There is also reduced pressure from competitive weeds.
